Mystras hangs between heaven and earth, glorious Byzantium and modern times. With her bones, hung on the mountainside alongside new skin added by meticulous restoration, she is at once ancient and renewed. Her narrow cobblestone streets, roofless palaces and mysterious churches, which give the visitor a respite from the arduous passage and blazing sun, are filled with the ancient Byzantine ghosts of Theodora Tocco crying for her lost child, Cleofe Malatesta, headstrong, elegant and controversial and Constantine  Palaiologos, the last Byzantine emperor; their voices are carried on the wings of honey bees and giant black iridescent beetles. Who is that mysterious black cat that keeps following you around?